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Down on the farm with Suvir Saran

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Suvir Saran holds one of his beloved heritage breed chickens on "Masala Farm," also the name of his latest cookbook/Ben Fink photos

Don’t you love it when one of your favorite chefs comes out with a new book or television series?

I know I do, which was why I was thrilled to learn that Suvir Saran, New-Delhi-born Top Chef Master and executive chef at Devi in New York City, is coming to the Hudson Valley for a booksigning Saturday at bluecashew Kitchen Pharmacy in Rhinebeck.

Suvir’s method of cooking Indian food is approachable without a lot of mystery about this exotic, spice-laden cuisine. I love his “Indian Home Cooking,” and have adopted his recipe for Tomato Rasam as a staple in our home.

His new book, “Masala Farm,” named after his 67-acre farm in upstate New York’s Washington County where he lives with his partner Charlie Burd, is all about sustainable agriculture and slow food. There are plenty of recipes peppered with stories about family and friends, who flock to his country abode, where he raises ducks, geese, goats, alpacas and chickens, and supports other local growers by buying their goods. I could just imagine the fun in his kitchen as all hands get into making a meal together.

Today’s Busy Cook in the Poughkeepsie Journal features a recipe for Shrimp and Sweet Corn Curry from “Masala Farm.”

There is also an interview I had with him on the cover of Family/Life. Check it out. You might become as smitten as I.

And if you are in the Hudson Valley this weekend, stop in at bluecashew Kitchen Pharmacy in Rhinebeck, where you can meet Suvir, pick up a copy of his new book and have him sign it, from 3-6 p.m.

Here are a couple more recipes from “Masala Farm” Suvir was kind enough to share. Both of these vegetarian recipes would make a wonderful addition to your Easter table. I love how he uses a tarka, a mixture of herbs fried in butter and oil, to enrich his luscious risotto.

Asparagus and Green Pea Risotto with Fresh Herb Tarka

Serves 8

In India, we look to add flavor to food using spices and cooking techniques, not stock. So instead of weighing risotto down with chicken broth, I instead fry herbs in butter and oil to make a tarka, a seasoned oil stirred into food to brighten its flavor. But I like a good stock, too, and I make mine with every scrap of vegetable when I cook, meaning that the carrot peelings, mushroom stems, and asparagus ends become stock for the risotto, introducing depth, nutrition, and interest beyond what plain water can bring. Making water-based scrap stocks also helps control the sodium levels of your foods (read the nutrition label on that can of chicken broth and be prepared for a shock when you get to the percent of sodium that one serving of the packaged broth adds to your daily intake). A Parmigiano-Reggiano rind or a few whole black peppercorns add a nice extra flavor.

For the tarka

  1. 2 tbsp unsalted butter
  2. 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  3. 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh basil
  4. 1 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
  5. 1 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme
  6. 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
  7. 1/8 tsp red pepper flakes

For the risotto

  1. 2 lbs/910 g asparagus
  2. 2 tsp kosher salt
  3. 1 Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (optional), plus 1 cup/100 g finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
  4. 1 tsp coarsely ground pepper (optional), plus 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
  5. 6 tbsp/85 g unsalted butter
  6. 1 medium red onion, finely chopped
  7. 2 cups/200 g Arborio rice
  8. 1/2 cup/120 ml dry white wine
  9. 10-oz/280-g bag fresh or frozen green peas
  10. Finely chopped fresh basil for serving
  • To make the tarka: Melt the butter in a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add the olive oil, basil, rosemary, thyme, black pepper, and red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring often, until the mixture is fragrant, about 1 minute. Turn off the heat and set aside.
  • To make the risotto: Snap off the tough ends of the asparagus and add them to a large soup pot. Slice the trimmed asparagus spears on the diagonal into 1-inch/2.5-cm lengths, leave the tips whole, and place both in a medium bowl and set aside.
  • Pour 12 cups/2.85 L water over the asparagus ends and add 1 tsp of the salt and the Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (if using), and the coarsely ground pepper (if using). Bring the liquid to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and gently simmer until the broth is fragrant, about 25 minutes. Strain the broth into a clean pot, cover to keep the broth warm, and discard the asparagus ends and the rind. (The broth can be made up to a week in advance; reheat before making the risotto.) You should have about 10 cups/2.35 L of broth.
  • Melt the butter in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the freshly ground pepper and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the onion and 1/2 tsp salt and cook, stirring often, until the onion is translucent and soft, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until the grains are opaque, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Pour in the wine and cook, stirring often, until it is absorbed, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and add 1 cup/240 ml of the broth. Cook the risotto, stirring constantly, until the liquid is mostly absorbed (when you push a wooden spoon through the center of the pot, a trail should remain for 1 second before the rice comes back together), and then add another 1 cup/240 ml of warm broth. The rice will probably need about 2 minutes of cooking and stirring between each addition.
  • Once you have added 5 cups/1.18 L broth total to the risotto (after about 10 minutes), add the sliced asparagus, asparagus tips, peas, and the remaining 1/2 tsp salt. You know the risotto is done when the rice is creamy, not mushy, the grains are plump yet separate, and the rice is cooked to an al dente doneness (there should be an opaque speck in the center of a grain of rice), after another three to five additions of broth and 8 to 10 more minutes. Turn off the heat. Add the tarka and 2 tbsp of the Parmigiano-Reggiano, stirring to combine. Spoon the risotto into serving bowls, shower with some fresh basil and Parmigiano-Reggiano, and serve.

Farro and Mushroom Burgers

Makes 10 patties

The farm has become a wonderful draw for friends from around the world who want to come and visit us and experience our new life. I encourage everyone to make our home their home, with full kitchen privileges. Charlie and I were smitten when our friend Joyce Goldstein, the incredibly talented award-winning chef, trendsetter (she steered the café kitchen at Chez Panisse for years), and author of more than twenty-seven cookbooks, came to visit us at the farm. We happily cooked together and learned from each other.

While I shared my ideas and techniques for cooking with Indian flavors, Joyce introduced us to farro and how wonderfully delicious it is. Farro is now always in my pantry. I love using it in this recipe for veggie burgers. In addition to protein and heart-healthy fiber, the texture it contributes is incredibly hearty. You can sandwich the burgers in a bun or eat it as a cutlet with chutney and a green salad on the side. When Charlie, Raquel, and I were working on recipes for the book, Raquel came to the farm eight months pregnant; she and her four-year-old son devoured these burgers with such voracity that I am convinced neither missed the absence of meat! If you can’t find farro, you can make the burgers with quinoa instead.

  1. 3/4 cup/125 g farro
  2. 1 lb/455 g red potatoes (about 3)
  3. 1 sprig fresh rosemary
  4. 1 sprig fresh thyme
  5. 6 tbsp/85 g unsalted butter
  6. 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
  7. 1 lb/455 g cremini mushroom caps, finely chopped
  8. 1 1/4 tsp kosher salt
  9. 5 to 8 tbsp/75 to 120 ml extra-virgin olive oil
  10. 3 shallots, finely chopped
  11. 1 tbsp dry white wine, dry vermouth, or water
  12. 1/2 cup/50 g finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
  13. 1 cup/50 g panko bread crumbs
  • Bring 2 1/4 cups/540 ml water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the farro, return to a boil, cover, and reduce the heat to medium-low, cooking until the farro is tender, about 30 minutes. Turn off the heat, fluff the farro with a fork, cover, and set aside.
  • While the farro cooks, boil the potatoes. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil, add the potatoes, return the water to a boil, and cook until a paring knife easily slips into the center of the largest potato, about 20 minutes. Drain and set aside. Once the potatoes are cool, peel them and place them in a large bowl.
  • Remove the needles and leaves from the rosemary and thyme sprigs and place them in a large frying pan along with the butter and black pepper. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Once the herbs start cracking, after about 1 1/2 minutes, add the mushrooms and salt. Cook until the mushrooms release their liquid and the pan is dry again, 6 to 7 minutes, stirring often. Transfer the mushrooms to the bowl with the potatoes and set aside.
  • Heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil in the same frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and cook until they are soft and just starting to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and stir to work in any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Turn off the heat and scrape the shallots into the bowl with the mushrooms and potatoes. Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano along with the farro. Use a potato masher or fork to mash the ingredients together.
  • Form the mixture into ten patties. Place the panko in a shallow dish and press the top and bottom of each patty into the panko to evenly coat. Heat 4 tbsp/60 ml of the olive oil in a clean large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add five patties and cook on each side until nicely browned and crusty, 8 to 10 minutes total. Remove the patties from the frying pan and place them on a plate. Repeat with the remaining patties, adding more oil between batches if necessary. Serve hot.

Down on the farm with Suvir Saran is a post from: Dish 'n' That

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